We just got back from a wonderful, weeklong trip up to the
northern part of Botswana. The first part of the trip was a series of work
consultations for me, the purpose of which was to introduce myself to some of our
contacts outside the capital and become more familiar with the issues that
concern them.
Our first destination, Maun, is a launch-off point for
tourists visiting the Okavango Delta, which is accessible via chartered flights
of about one to two hours from Maun. The Delta is probably one of the most
famous safari destinations in Botswana, and is known for its swanky, elegant
camps located right there in the park amongst all of the wildlife you would
ever want to see. We didn’t make it to the Delta this time, but I did spend two
very interesting days in consultations in Maun. The town is very small and
dusty, with a couple of surprisingly good restaurants and not a whole lot else
other than many tourist shops and travel agencies. The highlight of my stay there
was meeting the several Peace Corps volunteers posted in Maun and visiting each
of their projects, including a rehabilitation center for the disabled and an
AIDS counseling center focused on youth. It was very inspiring to see this
group of intelligent and motivated Americans working on such meaningful
projects and making a difference in the community. I also visited a non-profit counseling
and safe haven center called Women Against Rape, learned about water
conservation efforts in the Delta area, and paid a courtesy call on the local
government officials.
After two days in Maun, we flew one hour to the northwest to
Kasane, another tourist spot because of its proximity of Chobe National Park, a
second extremely popular tourist destination. Again, the first two days we
spent in Kasane were for work consultations. Along with several colleagues who
joined us in Kasane, we learned about conservation and resource management, as
well as environmental challenges in the region through meetings with a variety
of organizations, including the Botswana Defense Force anti-poaching unit; a
Peace Corps volunteer; a non-profit called Elephants Without Borders; and the
community based natural resource management organizer Chobe Enclave. The
meetings were very informative, and I especially enjoyed learning about the
wildlife populations surveys and elephant-focused studies conducted by
Elephants Without Borders.
Finally, we’re getting to the fun part! Conveniently I
managed to work in this business trip the week before Botswana National Day, a
four-day weekend holiday. When my meetings in Kasane were finished on Friday,
we transferred to the Chobe Safari Lodge and enjoyed three lovely days there.
The hotel was gorgeous with a nice pool, fun African-style rooms to get you in
the safari spirit, and warthogs and monekys roaming the grounds. One
mischievous little monkey stole my pina colada from right next to my lounge
chair and ate the pineapple garnish!
On Saturday we took a trip across the border to Victoria
Falls in Zimbabwe. We spent some time
hiking around the falls and then had a beautiful lunch at the Victoria Falls Hotel,
a colonially elegant place where Queen Elizabeth once stayed. Sunday morning we
had our first safari game drive through Chobe National Park, followed by an
amazing river cruise that afternoon and one more game drive the following
morning before heading back to Gaborone.
The safari activities – boat cruise and game drives- were
absolutely spectacular! There is so much to see in the park, and it seemed that
around every corner there was more wildlife to be admired. We saw elephants,
hippos, crocodiles, lions, giraffes, water buffalo, warthogs, impala, kudu and
tons of lovely birds. My favorites were the elephants! I thought it very sweet
how protective the adult elephants were of their children. Each time our driver
pulled up alongside a pack (pod? herd? ) of elephants, the adults immediately
formed a barrier between us and the young elephants in the group, waving their
trunks and flapping their ears at us. The babies of course were curious and
wanted to come closer to take a look, but the parents weren’t having any of
that! At one point on our boat cruise, we saw a group of 15 or so elephants
come jauntily running down to the water and start playing in the river. The
only thing that stood in the way of their fun was a crocodile lurking just off
the shore, but the large male elephants quickly chased him away by stamping
their feet threateningly in his direction. Even a croc would’ve been no match
for those strong men.
Other highlights were the lions – we saw five of them on our
second game drive! We even had what might be called a close encounter with one
lioness. During a stretch break, another guide came running up and told us all
to quickly get back into the van because a lion had been spotted in the area
and was coming towards us. To help us get a closer look, our guide drove us
around back of the rest stop area behind the bathrooms (where Scott and I had
just been not five minutes before) and there was the lioness, in the bushes
right behind the bathroom! As if that weren’t scary enough, the lioness locked
eyes with me when our (open-sided!) van pulled up next to her, and charged directly
towards me at full speed while glaring at me with those fierce lion eyes!
Fortunately for me she veered off at the last minute and retreated back into
the bushes… or I would not be here writing this blog entry!
Actually, I’m exaggerating a bit – it wasn’t quite as dire
as all that. Apparently the lions cannot distinguish between individual people
when they are all one unit piled into a vehicle; all they see is the size and
shape of the vehicle itself and therefore, unless provoked, would not attempt
to attack a creature so much larger than themselves. At least that’s what the
guide told us to make us feel better, who knows?!Photos from the trip are here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10102326803713553.3400535.5243964&type=1&l=694f57ed60
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